Pdf file with parts.
I'd like to show You how can we make pretty rails with it's fixing to sleepers. I'd like to imitate the original rails Polish type S60. I don't take sleepers, their size and distribution on subgrade into consideration. This is the way that my project could be universal. Everybody have to fit size and distribution of the sleepers to actual model. I work out the model of track-way in 1:25. There are 20 sets of complete sleepers and 100 cm of rails in one A4 sheet. I hope, that description is so clear, that You won't have the problems.
1. First print the file on the cardboard - thickness about 0,22 mm. We have to start our work with base-plate - part A (glue it to the thickness about 0,44 mm - final thickness of the part A) and part B (glue it to the thickness about 0,66 mm). All the parts A and B cut out and glue together according to the photos.
2. Next make four times more, than quantity of base-plates, circles about diameter approximate to 2,0 mm of cardboard about thickness 0,22 mm. They are the collars of fixing screws. Glue the circles in the four corners of the base-plate.
3. Glue parts C to thickness 0,88 mm and cut out four times more, than quantity of base-plates. And glue on each element in the right place. All parts D glue to thickness 0,44 mm and glue to part C as shown on photos. Each part D has to jut into the center of element. We made the slot we have to insert the rails into it.
4. This time we have to cut out circles about diameter approximate to 2,0 mm of three sheets of cardboard about thickness 0,66 mm. Make two times more circles, than quantity of base-plates. Glue the circles on the top of the part D. They are the springy collars of fixing nuts.
5. Now, glue parts E to thickness about 1,11 mm and exactly cut out (I used the beer-cardboard). We have nuts. Each nut glue on the top of the springy collars. There are a little more nuts on one sheet. On the top of each nut we have to glue the rivets cut from paper of thickness 0,22 mm about diameter about 1,00 mm. I cut it with medical needle 1,2 mm. This is the ending of screw-thread.
6. Now, probably the most difficult work. Glue parts F to thickness about 1,11 mm and exactly cut out the tiny cubicoids. I cut out the group of parts to the belts. Harden the cardboard with SuperGlue or BCG (BrandClearGlue - GluePen) and then cut off individual elements. Glue parts F on the top of each collars of fixing screws in the four corners of the base-plate. Now, we have to plunge in thinned Capon (nitro lacquer 1:1 with nitro solvent) whole element to harden and paint in rust colour.
7. Finished elements glue to the sleepers (evenly and in even distances). Fit the distances to wheels already built model. You should get something like this.
8. And now rails. I think that this is the quickest stage of work. Glue parts G to thickness about 1,44 mm and parts H to thickness about 0,88 mm and parts J to thickness about 0,55 mm. Cut out the long belts, trying to keep the perpendicular edge. Firs glue part H to part G, while part H is standing on part G. Next glue all element on part J while is lying. All rail we have to harden with GuperGlue particularly top of part G. After complete drying, give the part G shape of rail with abrasive paper. Next paint the rail: top - silver and rest - rust. Insert the finished rail into the sleepers and fix with drops SuperGlue. You should have something like this, theoretically.
10. Make the connections with parts remaining on sheet. Glue them to thickness about 0,88 mm. The outside rail-way connections have the glued heads of screws (the small rectangles glued to thickness about 0,44 mm). The inside rail-way connections have springy mats, screw and the imitation of threads exactly the same as rails. Paint connections in rust. Insert them among screws and fix with a drop of SuperGlue.
I hope, that description is readable and you will not have building problems with rails.
Have a nice work.